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Friday, January 18, 2008

Zale Corp to close 60 stores in 90 days

Zale Corp to close 60 stores in 90 days

Wants to cut annual capital spending from the planned $110 million to $85 million

Zale Corp seems to be noticing erratic developments recently. The company wants to cut down its annual capital spending from the planned $110 million to $85 million, as its sales slipped down by 9% during November and December 2007. A result of this is that Zale intends to close down 60 stores quite rapidly within the next 90 days. And this does not seem all, as the corporate wants to close a few more dozen stores later this year. On the contrary, Breeden Capital Management has increased its stake in Zale from 15.9% to 17.7%. Breeden has increased its stake for the fourth time during the month.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1900

GJF to spread its ‘trust mark’ nationwide

GJF to spread its ‘trust mark’ nationwide

Will target 250 jewellery retailers in Phase I

The All India Gems & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF), which had introduced the ‘trust mark’ logo in Mumbai in 2007, now wants more jewellers across India to benefit from it. The Federtaion would promote its programme amongst all jewellers in major cities of India. The logo signifies integrity in the conduct of business, as part of the Top Jewellers of India (TJOI) club. The other two membership categories are Preferred Jewellers of India and Reliable Jewellers of India.

When it was launched, around 20 jewellers in Mumbai had enrolled to bear the logo. The
GJF said that it is targeting 250 jewellery retailers from cities like Rajkot, Ahmedabad, Baroda, Surat, Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, Pune and Hyderabad, in the first phase ending March 2008, according to reports by the Financial Express. The jewellers who wish to participate must be those selling hallmarked jewellery and hold a registration with the Bureau of Indian Standards.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1904

Tiffany authorises repurchase

Tiffany authorises repurchase

Investor also increases his stake; now owns 10.71 million Tiffany shares

Tiffany & Co. said that it has authorised the additional repurchase of its shares and has also extended the deadlines for repurchasing. The shares are valued at $500 million of the common stock.

With the increase, Tiffany will be able to repurchase up to $637 million of its shares through January 31, 2011. Also Tiffany's staunch investor Nelson Peltz has increased his stake to 7.9% and now owns 10.71 million Tiffany shares. According to Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and chief executive officer at Tiffany & Co., “This new authorisation clearly expresses our board's confidence in Tiffany's business and growth potential, and enables us to continue to opportunistically repurchase shares and return excess capital to stockholders.”

Tiffany had made such an increase in August 2006, when it authorised the repurchase of up to $813 million stock through December 31, 2009. Tiffany is now planning to open a boutique in Tokyo's Matsuzakaya Ginza department store and another in Fukuoka's Hakata Daimaru department store by March 1, 2008.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1901

De Beers' lawsuit to be heard soon

De Beers' lawsuit to be heard soon

Claimants say that De Beers was involved in unfair trade and promotions

De Beers S.A and its associated companies seem to be immersed in class action lawsuits, where the claimants are asking for money damages on behalf of diamond purchasers. According to Resource Investor, the lawsuits connote that De Beers and subsidiaries had violated antitrust, unfair competition and consumer-protection laws by monopolizing diamond supplies, and had conspired to control the diamond prices by fixing and raising them as per their discretion. The company was also charged with false advertising.

The settlement which is being heard in the US District Court for the District of New Jersey, states that De Beers would be liable o pay $22.5 million to the Direct Purchaser Class Members who have submitted valid claims, while $272.5 million must be paid to Indirect Purchaser Class Members also with valid claims. The claim applies to diamonds purchased between January 1, 1994 and March 31, 2006. The Court will hold a hearing on the Settlement, called the “Fairness Hearing,” at 10:00 a.m. on April 14, 2008.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1902

DTC cocktail party ends on an ambitious note

DTC cocktail party ends on an ambitious note

Shine and Penny reiterate the growth plans of the DTC

The DTC Sightholder cocktail party, which was held two nights ago in London concluded on a positive note. Although the recent past has not been so pretty with DTC slacking its number of sightholders, Nicky Oppenheimer stated that several personal friends would no longer be buying diamonds directly from De Beers but, “At the same time, it is exciting to welcome new players who I am sure will add luster and vibrancy to the industry as a whole. Varda Shine (DTC Managing Director) has kept me closely in touch with the whole process and she and her team have met every challenge I placed before them.”

De Beers Managing Director Gareth Penny noted that in 2007 De Beers had introduced improvements to find new deposits of rough. He added: “As we look forward to opening several new mines this year, we have also sold on some of our operations that no longer fit with the business model we seek to deploy. To attain profitable growth, we must remain aware of costs. As India and China continue to register outstanding economic growth, their demand for finite supplies of natural resources has resulted in higher resource prices.”

DTC Managing Director Varda Shine admitted that the recent changes in DTC policies have not been easy for anyone. However, she noted: “I believe that the new Sightholder contract was implemented fairly and objectively, applying the same rules to every applicant. I believe too that it has resulted in a list of diverse, quality Sightholders that are best placed for future success, particularly in the current environment of constrained supply.” She also highlighted the road ahead to be taken by DTC along with its partners, saying “DTC Botswana will be opening its new building in Gaborone and we will be working on our plans to transfer aggregation from London to their fantastic new facility in 2009. The new Sightholder contract will mark the completion of major period of change in the structure of our business relationship with you, our clients. Our joint ventures with the Governments of Namibia and Botswana are start up businesses. They have access to the knowledge and expertise of the DTC and will adapt as lessons are learnt. Together, the DTC, its producer partners and the Sightholders with operations in these countries will continue to seek ways of maximizing the value of diamonds and work together to ensure that a sustainable downstream business is created.”

Shine asked the Sightholders to benefit DTC’s initiatives with feedback to make ways for improvements. She also clarified the eligibility of the Forever mark, saying: As you know, in future participation in the FOREVERMARK will be open to all eligible diamantaires and not just DTC Sightholders. This means that existing and new DTC Sightholders through their continuing compliance with the Best Practice Principles will meet one of the fundamental criteria to be a FOREVERMARK diamantaire.”

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1903

Monday, January 14, 2008

Rio Tinto may reconsider investment in Zimbabwe

Rio Tinto may reconsider investment in Zimbabwe

Awaits the implementation of the Bill

According to Antwerp Facets News Service, Rio Tinto which had earlier planned to withdraw its investments in a new project in Zimbabwe, says that it may reconsider the U.S. $60 million investment, provided the Mugabe government implements its Indigenization and Economic Empowerment Bill. The Bill now awaits the signature of the President Robert Mugabe, although it has been approved by the Zimababwian Legislation. The Bill states that all foreign owned companies would have to inclulde a local as a majority shareholder. Rio Tinto holds 56 percent of Rio Tinto Zimbabwe, which owns and operates the Murowa diamond mine.

The Zimbabwe parliament is also considering the Mines and Minerals Amendment Bill, which will authorise the government to purchase 51 percent staked in foreign companies’ holding in local mines, which produce ‘strategic fuels and minerals’. Up to 25 percent of the 51 percent could be taken without money changing hands, and the remaining would be paid under a five-year plan.

Rio Tinto has also expressed concern about Zimbabwe’s foreign exchange regulations, which requires mining companies to source foreign exchange at the official rate, which currently is Zim. $30 000 to one U.S. dollar, reported AFNS. The rate available on the open market is more than Zim. $2 million to one U.S. dollar.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1879

Macau Fair - a launch pad for China

Macau Fair - a launch pad for China

Will allow global diamond companies to gain from the growing demand of China's markets

China hosted its first jewellery show ‘Macau Jewellery and Watch Fair’, at The Cotai Strip Convention and Exhibition Center at The Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel. The four day show was inaugurated on January 10, and accommodated more than 500 exhibitors across 24 countries, with most of them being from Hong Kong and the Israeli diamond industry.

The fair was co-hosted by CMP Asia and the Israeli Diamond Industry. According to CMP’s CEO Mr. Jime Essink, there was immense growth potential within the new markets opening in the Far East, mentioning that the trade events in Macau and likewise in Shenzhen and Shanghai, will be a strong ground for exhibitions and business interactions with companies across the globe.

Alissa Goren, the Israel Diamond Institute’s Director of Marketing and Trade Events, noted that the show, which is the first high-profile jewelry event to take place in Macau, provides an excellent opportunity for first-time exhibitors in the Asia-Pacific to establish themselves in the rapidly developing regional markets. Celine Lau, director of jewelry fairs at CMP Asia said "Macau is becoming the newest hot spot for business and entertainment in Asia. Because of these trends, the Macau Jewellery and Watch Fair is being held to provide an unprecedented marketplace for both Asian and international exhibitors, and represents a milestone in Asia's emergence as a crucial trading platform for the world's jewelry business."

One amongst the many unique displays at the show was a 136-carat Colombian emerald exhibited at the Hatta New World booth in the Fine Design Pavilion.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1880

Astronomers discover largest diamond in galaxy

Astronomers discover largest diamond in galaxy

Lucy weighs 10 billion trillion trillion carats

According to a report by the Antwerp Facets News Service, astronomers at Harvard University have discovered what they claim as the largest diamond till date ever to be found, over and above what exists on earth. The diamond is the planet called 'Lucy', which is 50 light years from the Earth. This diamond planet weighs at least 10 billion trillion trillion carats and is the remianing hot core of an extinct star. The astronomers explained that Lucy is a crystallised white dwarf. They also claim that within five billion years, the Sun will also die and turn into a similar diamond in the solar system.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1876

DTC implements its BPP

DTC implements its BPP

Bans suplpies to six companies, two have lost sights for the current year

The Diamond Trading Company (DTC), under the leadership of Varda Shine seems to be projecting a strict image as far as implementing its Best Practice Principles (BPP) is concerned. Recently, it suspended six sightholders due to a criminal case filed against them in Antwerp. The case is filed with the Antwerp criminal court, which ruled on December 6, 2007, that the companies were involved in smuggling of diamonds based on fake invoices. The case had occurred a decade ago.

Pending the results of further due diligence into this matter, the DTC reserves its right to take all appropriate action in respect of its supply to the businesses involved, in connection with both the current Transitional Supply Contract, and (where relevant) the 2008-2011 Supplier of Choice Contract including, but not limited to, suspension or termination of supply. Most of the suspended companies were Indian firms based in Belgium, of which two are sightholders who have lost their contract for the current period. They plan to appeal to the DTC that the case occurred before the DTC introduced its best practice principles.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1882

US polished imports grew by 8.6% in value

US polished imports grew by 8.6% in value

Polished imports from india gre in value by 10.7%

According to reports, the American polished diamond gross imports grew overall in value but declined in volume across all countries. The overall polished import increase was of 8.6% to amount to $15.1 billion, during January to October in 2007. Polished imports from India also surged by 10.7% to value at $3.16 billion. Year-to-date polished imports from Israel escalated by 10.3% to $7.9 billion, while that from Belgium was up by 5.4% to $2.46 billion.

However polished imports in volume plummeted by 11% to 13.35 million carats, or an average of $1,131/ct. Polished imports from India also fell in volume by 11.3% to amount to 7.85 million carats. The average value of India’s polished shipments was $403.51/ct. The polished imports from Israel dropped by 4.4%, to 3 million carats, with an average value of $2,630/ct. Polished diamond imports from Belgium also dipped by 10.1% to 1.26 million carats, averaging $1,952/ct.

http://www.diamondworld.net/newsroom/news.asp?newsid=1881

19th IJT-int'l Jewellery Tokyo

19th IJT-int'l Jewellery Tokyo

January 23, 2008 - January 26, 2008
Tokyo, Japan

Jewelers International

Jewelers International
Showcase (JIS)

January 19, 2008 - January 21, 2008
Florida, USA

MACEF Milano

MACEF Milano

January 18, 2008 - January 21, 2008
Milan, Italy

The Macau Jewellery & Watch Fair

The Macau Jewellery & Watch Fair

January 10, 2008 - January 13, 2008
Macau, China

International Gem & Jewelry Show Inc.

International Gem & Jewelry Show Inc.

January 11, 2008 - January 13, 2008
Florida, USA

Notes On Specific Gravity

Notes On Specific Gravity
Copyright © Charles Lewton-Brain 1986 - 1994

Archimedes is said to have discovered that when a body is placed in water the volume of water displaced is equal to the volume of the body and that when the body is placed in water that it undergoes an apparent loss of weight. This loss of weight is equal to the weight of the water displaced. When a gem is weighed in air and then weighed in water the loss of weight is equal to the weight of its volume in water displaced. The weight of the gem in air divided by the loss of weight in water gives the specific gravity of the stone or material.

Specific gravity is then defined as "The weight of a body compared with the weight of an equal amount of pure water at 4oC (4oC is essentially the temperature at which water is densest). In practice room temperature water is used. What this means is that a given volume of ruby weights 4 times as much as an equal volume of water or a given volume of diamond weighs 3.52 times as much as an equal volume of water. An example of using this is: gem weighs 5 ct in air, loss of weight is 1.25 ct. in water (weight units do not matter, grams, carats).

Calculate:

The gem is then corundum with an SG of 4.00 (3.99).

The specific gravity for each mineral is the same within narrow limits (except in species like topaz or garnet and zircon where subgroups with definite specific gravities occur). If one can determine the specific gravity of a gem one can usually identify it. In practice however because of time constraints and other factors specific gravity determination is usually used as a corroborative test or for large, rough or carved samples.

There are a number of SG balances made for measuring specific gravity. These allow the SG of the sample to be read directly from their scales. Two are the Westphal and the Hanneman. The Hanneman balance is extremely inexpensive ($10.00 US), fairly fast and easy to use. It is very accurate and can give accurate results on stones as small as .5 ct with care while other balances are not accurate below 3.0 cts. There are 5 cts to the gram.

A regular diamond or chemical balance, mechanical or electronic may be adapted for hydrostatic SG determinations by devising a way of weighing the stone in air, then in water, using the same pan. The conditions required are:

1. A bridge is constructed for the left hand side of the balance. This sits above the pan without touching or otherwise interfering with the operation of the balance at any time in its use. The bridge should not be magnetized.

2. A beaker of water (distilled, deionized, degassed) is placed on the bridge. A tiny drop of wetting agent, alcohol, or better photo-flo or dishwashing liquid is added to the water to decrease surface tension which can adversely affect the results. This too may not hinder or touch the operation of the balance.

3. An extremely thin lightweight metal spiral wire 'cage' is constructed which hangs from the left hand side of the balance arm. The spiral 'cage' is submerged in water. It should be of rustproof metal like brass, copper, stainless steel, titanium or tungsten.

Illustration 1

4. A counterbalance wire is hung from the opposite side of the balance arm at the same position. This is cut so as to balance the 'cage' wire as completely as possible

Illustration 2
diamond or chemical balance accurate to 3 decimal places (.001g)

Procedure to Determine SG of a Gemstone Over 3 ct

1. Zero the balance. If your counterbalance wire does not do this you have to add some weights to the right hand pan (for right handed people) to get the indicator needle of the balance to register zero or perfect balance. This weight must of course then be subtracted from your later additions of weights to this pan.

2. Clean the stone very carefully with a gem cloth. If it has wax or grease on it this must be removed. Use alcohol and wipe clean. Examine it for large flaws or inclusions which might affect the accuracy of the results.

3. Place it on the left hand pan underneath the bridge and weight the stone. Record the result. Weighings are done to three decimal places.

4. Place the stone in the spiral cage and weigh it in water. Record the result. Brush off any bubbles on the stone or wire with a fine brush.

5. Subtract the second result from the first to find the difference. (The loss of weight in water).

6. Calculate:

7. For more accurate results repeat the procedure at least three times and average the results. Make sure the stone is dry before repeating the air weighing.

With an electronic balance the procedure is similar except that only one balance pan is used. As you will not be able to zero the balance the weight of the spiral cage suspended in water is the zero weight and all calculations are done from this reference point. eg. if it weighs .3 grams then subtract .3 grams from all calculations.

There are several other methods of determining specific gravity hydrostatically. For large specimens a spring balance and a bucket of water may be used. The larger the object the more accurate the results.

Other Balance Methods
(Sinkakas, Gemstone and Mineral Databook, pp 123 -126)
For large samples, sculptures, rough.

1. Weigh specimen in grams.

2. Partly fill a graduated cylinder (cc) with water.

3. Drop in sample, note new volume.

4. Difference between volumes = volume of water displaced in grams.

5. Calculate:

This method is rough.

Also: 1. Weigh specimen.

2. Place a beaker partly filled with water on balance and weigh.

3. Leaving beaker and water in place submerge the sample with a very thin thread or nylon monofilament in the water.

4. The beaker and water gain weight, rebalance and note new reading.

5. The difference between new weight and earlier weight is the weight of the water displaced by the sample. This too is a rough method.

Causes of Error in Hydrostatic SG Determination

1. Too small a specimen.

2. Surface tension of water. One drop of detergent liquid the size of a pin head destroys surface tension in 1 liter of water.

3. Failure to degas water. Use boiled, deionized water that has been sitting for a time.

4. Failure to record and compensate for temperature corrections when using liquids other than water.

5. Failure to multiply SG by density of liquid other than water.

To avoid problems of surface tension other liquids than water may be used. Examples are Carbon Tetrachloride, toluene and alcohol. Ethylene dibromide was used but is now considered too dangerous. Recommended is toluene or alcohol. Because temperature affects the SG of these liquids one must refer to the literature for each temperature change when using them. In practice it may be better to find the exact SG of the liquid you are using at the time of use and then refer to your SG and temperature correlations as you build them up with time. Such liquids are used for small stones to increase accuracy. To find the SG of a liquid use a very clean piece of quartz which has a constant SG of 2.651 (a gemstone and weigh as if to obtain the SG. Then solve the equation:

Heavy Liquid Methods

Various liquids and chemicals have a wide range of SGs. When a stone is placed in a liquid of the same SG it suspends, and stays where it was placed (or sinks or rises very slowly). If it has a lower SG (is 'lighter') than the liquid it floats. If it is denser (has a higher SG, is 'heavier') it sinks. Therefore, given a range of liquids of known SGs it is possible to estimate or even determine the SG of a stone by its behavior in the liquids.

Heavy liquids should not be used at all without a properly tested fume hood. Cleanliness and proper working methods are essential because they can cause severe health damage and can be absorbed through the skin and by breathing. They belong in a properly equipped gemmolocial laboratory.

The Advantages of Heavy Liquids Include:
1. Speed. It is very fast. One usually begins with the densest liquid and goes to the next less dense until the stone sinks to the bottom. If you are lucky it suspends.

2. One can use them for stones under 3 ct. Stone size makes no difference.

3. As an ancillary method it may be very rapid to check or corroborate other tests.

4. Very quick for separating different types of similar appearing stones from the same package. For example checking beryl (emerald) one might make up a liquid with the density of 2.71 (Indicator is calcite).

Disadvantages:
1. The liquids used are really toxic, hazardous to your health, messy, smelly, poisonous and in some cases corrosive.

2. Cracked, flawed stones may give inaccurate readings.

3. Stones must be unmounted.

4. Porous stones may not be tested (opal, turquoise, organic gemstones).

5. The liquids attack many plastics.

There are three liquids recommended by gemology text books for general use.

Bromoform SG 2.88
Methylene Iodide SG 3.33
Monobromonapthalene SG 1.49 This is used to dilute and lower the SGs of the other two. Liddicoat suggests the use of toluene which is very flammable and evaporates faster than monobromonapthalene but is cheaper.

Liquid Number

Indicator
#1 2.65 SG Bromoform diluted with monobromonapthalene. Quartz, feldspars, iolite float, most other stones sink. Quartz
#2 2.88 SG Bromoform, undiluted. Beryl floats, other green blue stones sink.
#3 3.05 SG Methylene iodide diluted with monobromonap- Tourmaline thalene. Tourmaline floats, nephrite floats, jadeite sinks.
#4 3.33 SG Methylene iodide undiluted. Jadeite, peridot suspend or float or sink very slowly, topaz sinks, tourmaline floats, etc.

There are also solutions made up with an SG of 3.52 (diamond indicator) and 4.00 (corundum indicator) using a liquid called Clerici solution which may be diluted with water.

Indicators of clear gemstones may be used as a check on the liquid SG before use as evaporation etc. can change the SG. Manufactured glass SG indicators in a wide range are also available. It should be noted that relative speed of sinking is a good indication of SG range. If a stone sinks very rapidly then it is a lot denser than the liquid, slowly it is similar. The degree to which it floats on a liquid can also tell something about its SG. High floating means it is a lot less dense, low floating similar, suspends - the same. Make sure to tap or dunk a stone with tweezers to ensure that surface tension is not holding it up.

Although Clerici solution offers many advantages to the gem tester it is no longer recommended as it is extremely toxic, corrosive and recently shown to be carcinogenic. It demonstrates an exact correlation between SG and RI as it is diluted. It may be diluted until a gemstone suspends and then a drop of it placed on a refractometer and the RI found. The one looks at a straight line graph and reads off the SG of the solution and the stone. To reconcentrate it water is simply allowed to evaporate. At full concentration its SG is 4.28. The less toxic liquids can also be used in the same way to obtain a correlation between SG and RI. However they are not easy to reconcentrate. There are also other methods of obtaining the SG of a stone using heavy liquids.

Using Heavy Liquids
1. Adequate ventilation is necessary.

2. All tweezers, stones, etc. in contact with the liquids must be very carefully cleaned; perhaps with toluene as a solvent; between liquids to prevent contamination or corrosion of tools. Clean them extra carefully after finishing.

3. They are poison. No food, smoking or drinking is allowed when using heavy liquids.

4. Hands must be washed right after use whether or not they were in contact with the liquids.

The Hanneman Balance

To use the Hanneman Balance: (A small amount of detergent in the water will increase accuracy)

1. Set up balance as described.

2. Clean the stone, check for flaws.

3. Slide zero weight to a position where the indicator needle registers zero on the zero card. If necessary adjust the zero card slightly. The balance should be as horizontal as possible.

4. Place stone in top left hand pan. Place indicator weight wires on the notch at the right of the balance until the needle registers zero again.

5. Place the stone carefully in the lower pan under water. Brush off any air bubbles. The needle will rise as the weight is less.

6. Slide the indicator weights wire to the left on the scale until the needle registers zero again.

7. Read the SG value (top scale). Repeat twice more and average for increased accuracy.

You can order the Hanneman balance and other items from: Hanneman Gemological Instruments, PO box 942L, Poulsbo, WA, 98370, USA

Basic Optics Notes for Gemology

Basic Optics Notes for Gemology
Copyright © Charles Lewton-Brain 1986 -1994

The optical characteristics and properties of gemstones often provide the fastest and best methods of identification. A certain amount of theory is necessary as optical principles determine cutting methods, gemstone attributes and the function of gem testing instruments.

Light
Light and our perception of it play a crucial role in our appreciation of and identification of gemstones. Visible light however comprises only a small part of what is referred to as the electromagnetic spectrum.

While the wave or undulatory theory of light has been mostly superseded by the quantum (particle) theory the wave theory best serves the purpose of describing light for gemmology. We can consider the electromagnetic spectrum to consist of an infinite number of types of wavelengths, from short to very long. Different wavelengths have different powers of penetration dependent upon their length relative to the medium they pass through. X-rays for example with a wavelength near atomic sizes pass through or between most atoms. The amount passed depends upon the mass of the atom concerned. Dense atoms like lead for instance provide a screen against x-rays. An application of this is a test for diamonds, whether set or unset, where the suspect stones are x-rayed for ten seconds over photographic paper. Carbon atoms are small (low mass) and so diamond is transparent to x-rays and is invisible on the photograph while all diamond simulants show up as positive, opaque shapes.

A rough wavelength scale follows:


Note what a small portion of the spectrum comprises visible light. Light can be thought of as progressing outward in a single path (a ray). The ray forms a wave vibrating in all planes at right angles to the direction of travel, the line of the ray.

White light is composed of a mixture of a great many wavelengths each of which is perceived as a different colour. The wavelength of violet light for example is about half that of red light. The wavelengths of white light may be divided into:

Red 700.0 nm to 640.0 nm
Orange 640.0 nm to 595.0 nm
Yellow 595.0 nm to 575.0 nm
Green 575.0 nm to 500.0 nm
Blue 500.0 nm to 440.0 nm
Violet 440.0 nm to 400.0 nm

Transparency Refers to the ease with which light is transmitted through a substance. Classifications of transparency in cut gemstones include:

1. Transparent stones. An object viewed through the gem shows outlines clearly and distinctly (diamond, topaz, corundum).

2. Semi-transparent. Blurred outlines of object but a great deal of light still passes through the stone, i.e. chalcedony.

3. Translucent. Some light passes through, no object can be seen through stone, i.e. opal, some jades, much cryptocrystalline quartz.

4. Semi-translucent. Light is only transmitted through edges, where they are thin, i.e. turquoise.

5. Opaque. No light passes through, i.e. malachite, pyrites.

Colour and degree of colour will affect transparency as will inclusions, flaws, etc. Quality will also affect it. The characteristics are subjective in nature and overlap exists.

Reflection of Light
If a ray of light falls onto a plane mirror the light is reflected away from the surface. The angle of incidence NOI equals the angle of reflection NOR and IO, NO and RO are in the same plane. All angles in optics are measured from the 'normal', an imaginary line at right angles to the surface at the point of incidence (where the light ray strikes the surface).

Refraction
A ray light entering an optically denser medium is bent (refracted) towards the normal. The greater the bending (refraction) for a given angle of incidence the greater is the refractive power of the stone.

The cause of refraction is that the light waves (300,000 km/second) are slowed down as they enter the optically denser medium. In the 17th century Snell (Dutch scientist) described laws relating angles of incidence and refraction for two media. There is a constant ratio between the sines of these angles for any given two media. The constant ratio obtained is called the refractive index. Air is chosen as the rarer medium and yellow sodium light is the standard for refractive index measurements. Refractive index is a measure of a gem's refractive power. It is the ratio of the sine of the angle of incidence divided by the sine of the angle of refraction when light passes from air into the denser medium.

Gems refractive indices range from under 1.5 to over 2.8.

Total Internal Reflection
A ray passing in the opposite direction, from the denser to the rarer (gem to air) medium is bent (refracted) away from the normal.

As the angle of incidence is increased the angle of refraction away from the normal increases until a point is reached when the ray I1OR1 exits parallel to the table of the stone. Any further increase in this angle causes the ray to be totally reflected back into the gem. Ray I2OR2 has been reflected back into the gemstone. This is called total internal reflection and the angle I1OM is called the critical angle for the medium in question. The brilliant cut of diamonds uses total internal reflection and the critical angle for diamond and air to ensure that all light entering the stone is totally reflected and passes out the table or crown facets of the stone. The critical angle is also what enables a refractometer to differentiate gemstones of different species.

Dispersion
A white light ray entering an optically denser medium and leaving by a plane inclined to that of entry will have its colours separated, analyzed, spread out. This is because each colour has a different wavelength and so is differently slowed down (refracted) by the medium. Red (longest wavelength) is slowed the least and violet (shortest wavelength) the most.

This spreading is termed dispersion. In gemstones the effect gives rise to the stone's 'fire'. It may be measured with complex equipment and numerical values given. The higher the number the greater the fire where the stone's colour does not mask the effect, as in demantoid (green) garnet with a greater dispersion (.057) than diamond (.044). With practice and standard stones numerical estimates of dispersion may be made with the Hanneman/Hodgkinson slit technique.

Plane Polarized Light
When a light ray passes through a doubly refractive gemstone it is split into two rays with different amounts of refraction. Each ray is plane polarized, that is instead of the wave vibrating all directions about the line of the ray it vibrates in a single plane only. Each ray is plane polarized at right angles to the other. As each ray is differently refracted so it is differently absorbed by the stone and possesses in coloured gems a different hue or colour.

The Dichroscope picks up each ray at the same time and allows one to view them side by side. A simple dichroscope is a block of calcite with black paper glued to one end which has a small rectangular hole cut in it. The viewer sees two images because the light ray has been split by the high double refraction of calcite. Each image is of a different ray (each ray is also plane polarized at right angles to the other - this is what allows the calcite to present them separately). If a difference in colour exists it will be visible by comparison. One must always test in several directions. This can be of some use in identifying gemstones by their characteristic dichroic or trichroic colours but is usually used as a method of detecting double refraction. Presence of dichroism proves double refraction. Absence does not mean a material is not doubly refractive - it may be that the dichroism is very weak, or in transparent stones there is none evident. It can be used to find an optic axis. If three colours (trichroic) are seen it means the stone is biaxial. If two only are seen it is uniaxial. Transmitted, not reflected light must be used as reflected light may be partly polarized. Most natural corundum is cut with the table oriented to the optic axis and will show no dichroism through the table. Most synthetic corundum has the table parallel to the optic axis and dichroism is strongest through the table. This is then an indication of synthetic origin.

Physical Properties of Gemstones

Introductory Gemmology - Definitions Concerning Physical Properties of Gemstones
Copyright © Charles Lewton-Brain 1997

Crystal Structure
A perfect crystal is bounded by plane faces which meet at angles specific for each kind of material (angle analysis can identify minerals). A crystal may be cleaved in directions related to the external form or to a possible crystal form for the mineral. Sometimes two distinct minerals can have the same chemical composition with their differing properties being due to their different crystal structure. Crystal structure affects mineral properties more than their chemical nature. Examples here include diamond (carbon, cubic) and graphite (carbon, hexagonal) and Calcite (trigonal) and aragonite (orthorhombic), both forms of calcium carbonate.

Properties Related to Crystal Structure

Optical: In the cubic system a light ray is refracted (bent), passes through the crystal and emerges as a single ray. This is known as an isotropic (singly refractive) material. Of the doubly refractive crystal systems three (tetragonal, hexagonal, trigonal) are uniaxial and have a single direction (not a line but an entire direction) of single refraction in the doubly refractive (anisotropic or birefringent) crystal. The orthorhombic, monoclinic and triclinic systems are biaxial and have two directions of single refraction in the double refractive (anisotropic or birefringent) crystal. In uniaxial crystals the isotropic direction is that of the main crystal axis.

Pleochroism (Dichroism, trichroism): In doubly refractive gemstones the light ray is split and each part refracted (bent) to a different degree. Assuming this ray is made up of white light (which is composed of all colours) each ray has various colours absorbed (filtered) so that each ray as it emerges from the gemstone is a different (residual) colour. This is called dichroism (means two colours). Thus depending upon the direction one looks at the stone relative to the crystal and optical axes a different colour is seen. Both colours are often present at the same time however and it requires a dichroscope to separate the colours to see them. The dichroscope allows each ray's colour to be viewed separately and at the same time to compare them.

Uniaxial gemstones are dichroic and two colours may be observed. Biaxial stones are trichroic and three colours may be seen.

Heat Conductivity: Heat is conducted differently in various minerals according to their crystal system. This is used in Thermal Conductivity instruments to differentiate diamond which conducts heat very well from its simulants and imitations. Some instruments use it to identify other gemstones but they are expensive and of value only when used with care and some gemmological knowledge. The use of standard stones is suggested and drafts to be avoided as they can change the readings. At its simplest this is the temperature test using tongue or lips for glass and plastic.

Electrical Effects: Atomic structure and the related crystal structure influence electrical properties. Some crystals possess pyro-electricity. Tourmaline for example when heated to between 100 - 100oC possesses polarity like a magnet needle. Another effect of some polar crystals is piezo-electricity-pressure on a crystal slab induces electrical charges on opposite faces. This is used in piezo-electric gas lighters. If an alternating current is applied to the crystal it oscillates. This is used in controlling radio wavelengths, usually using synthetic quartz. Quartz watches use these properties. Silicon chips depend upon the directional crystal properties to function. Electrical current is conducted better in some gemstones than others. Natural blue diamonds conduct electricity while the irradiated blue ones do not. A simple circuit can be constructed to test this.

Cleavage: The is the tendency of a crystallized mineral to break in definite directions related to the crystal structure producing relatively smooth cleavage break surfaces. Cleavage planes are always parallel to a particular cleavage face, i.e. diamond cleaves in any of the four directions parallel to the faces of the octahedron. Almost all crystals have a tendency to cleave. Those with the least tendency to cleave include garnets, quartz, spinel (natural), beryl and zircon. Gemstones with a strong tendency to cleave include diamond, fluorite, topaz, peridot, kunzite (spodumene), euclase, sphene, axinite, feldspars, synthetic spinel, dioptase and calcite.

Cleavage is described by the crystal face to which it is parallel; diamond has octahedral cleavage, topaz has basal (parallel to the base of the topaz crystal prism). The ease with which cleavage occurs and the resultant smoothness of the cleavage break is described as perfect in topaz, indistinct and difficult in beryl. Cleavage can be used in cutting diamonds and it should be noted that stones with a strong tendency to cleave can be easily cleaved in polishing and setting procedures.

Fracture: Defines the type of surface obtained by breaking a crystal in a direction other than that of cleavage. Types include conchoidal, shell-like as in glass and often in gemstones. Also even, uneven and hackly or splintery as in nephrite. Identification applications of cleavage/fracture include: Nephrite cleavage cracks occur as 124o and jadeite at 93o.

Synthetic spinel imitating aquamarine may show cracks at right angles and aquamarine does not.

Feldspars cleave and chalcedony does not. Tiny chips or breaks on the girdle of cabachon feldspars (sunstone, moonstone, amazonite, etc.) are flat and have a vitreous lustre while in chalcedony they are conchoidal with a waxy lustre.
Splintery fracture is seen in nephrite and hematite.
Hematite fracture is splintery and hematite (a substitute) is not.
Conchoidal fractures are a strong indicator of glass. I've seen quartz do it too to some degree.

Hardness: "The power a stone possesses to resist abrasion when a pointed fragment of another substance is drawn across its smooth surface without sufficient pressure to develop cleavage" (GA course material).

Harder stones will scratch softer ones. Stones of the same hardness may scratch each other (a diamond can scratch a diamond). The Mohs scale is used for gemstone hardnesses. This scale is purely relative as shown by the fact that the difference in hardness between corundum (9) and diamond (10) is 140 times the difference between talc (1) and corundum (9).

Mohs Scale
1. Talc
2. Gypsum
3. Calcite
4. Fluorite
5. Apatite
6. Orthoclase feldspar
7. Quartz
8. Topaz
9. Corundum
10. Diamond

Other reference points include:
Finger nail 2 1/2
Copper penny 3 or so
Window glass 5 1/2 or so
Knife blade 6
Steel file 6 1/2 - 7
Silicon carbide 9 1/4
Carborundum 9 1/4

Hardness testing is not often used as the chance of damaging a good stone or even an imitation of value to the owner is too high. It is normally only used on rough material or on an inconspicuous spot on large carvings as a confirmatory test.

Any scratch detracts from the value of a gem. It will not tell if something is synthetic or natural.

Hardness points Sets of standard pieces of Mohs hardness 7, 8, 9, 10 mounted in rods used to scratch gem materials.

Hardness Plates Sheets or slabs of standard hardness materials. The gem to be tested is rubbed on the plate using the girdle so that hopefully the plate suffers the damage. Again, material can scratch itself although it is true that the feel of the "bite" in hardness testing can tell a great deal.

It is also not necessary to file chunks from gems or scratch whole facets; a 1 mm scratch can suffice and if the plate and stone is wiped clean and inspected with a loupe one can tell which was scratched. Diamond is the only colourless gemstone which will produce a scratch in a polished corundum plate.

A lapidary can make a set of small plates quite easily and synthetic corundum can supply the #9 plate.

Properties of light and Gemstones

Article by: Mr. Englisher - Gemcal.com

Notes about colors

The colors of gemstones slightly vary when exposed to different light sources. Any light source has a specific spectral quality. Further variations are accruing when gemstones are photographed, and their images are transmitted and displayed through different types of electronic devices. Minor color differences between an image - displayed on your screen - and the real piece examined in your specific environment are to be expected

About light

Light is a form of electromagnetic energy emited from a point source , and spreading as a wave front in all directions, in a spherical form.

The traveling speed of this front is the speed of light, which is 300,000 Km per second in vacuum, and its slowed by 25% when travelling through water, and 33% when through glass. This wave front can be diverted from its original direction by objects along its path. The nature of these objects dictates the level of diversion. The behavior of electromagnetic energy is better explained and understood if we assumed that they act like waves. To visualize this, think of a stone dropped into a pond. We can see circular rings of water advancing along the surface. Electromagnetic waves are traveling the same way, but in three dimensional (spherical) manner. The distance between one crest of wave to the next is called the wavelength. The number of wave crests passing a specific point at a measurable time frame is the frequency. The height, or the intensity of the wave is called amplitude.

Different electromagnetic energy sources are emitting various frequencies or wavelengths. The range of these various types of wavelength is called the electromagnetic spectrum. At the lower end, we find the radio waves, and while the wavelengths are getting shorter they appear as heat, then as infra red, the visible spectrum, ultra violet, nearly at the end of this range we can detect what is called x-rays and gamma rays. There is no definite gap when one group merges with another because the change is continuous along the whole spectrum.

The visible spectrum is the portion of the electromagnetic range that stimulates the human eye. The range is between 400 nanometer (wavelength) and 700 nanometer. With red at the lower part (700 to 600 nanometer) blue and the violet at the higher end (400 nanometer.). At the fringes of this range we can find the infra red light ( 720 nanometer) and the ultra violet ( 390 manoweter). Again, there are no breaking points, and the changes are continuous.

When sunlight passes through a simple glass prism, the light will disperse into bands showing the colors of the rainbow. These colors represent the visible spectrum. Recombination of these colors will produce white light again. By masking portions of different colors in the spectrum, then recombining other colors, we can create any possible color. Some combinations, magenta for instance, do not exist in the natural color spectrum. All this shows that the human eye has three kinds of color sensitivity: to blue, green and red. This explanation is called the "Young - Helmholtz" color vision theory. It gives simple description of the production of any color from three primary colors: blue, green and red.

Spectral Quality is the combination of wavelengths, with different energy levels, of a given light source. Imagine preparing cocktails - we can create endless combinations of different aromas and liqueurs. Every light source is a cocktail of various wavelengths, each wavelength has different intensity.

As mentioned earlier, light can be diverted from its path. When light hits an object, the object may absorb specific segments of light and reflect other portions. These reflections when reaching the human eye are translated as the colors of an object. If we use different light sources with a different spectral quality, the color of the same object may appear to us slightly different every time. Daylight is one of the most common sources of light in everyday life. But is it the same all the time everywhere under the sun? The answer is definitely not. As it leaves the sun it filters through space and the atmosphere, both ever changing environments. It hits the earth surface in different angles according to the time of the day and the season of the year. Changing weather conditions, pollution levels, reflecting land textures: all these dynamic elements are the reason why the spectral quality of daylight is very illusory.

Artificial light sources have developed in leaps and bounds since Edison invented the light bulb. Today 's manufacturers are producing an ever-growing range of light emitting techniques. Therefore a large but not necessarily standardized range of light sources are available. We can expect steady spectral quality from any given type of artificial source. But the large variety makes it impossible to set one type as the international standard. Also, the importance of spectral quality is limited to specific fields: one of them is the gemstone trade.

Finally, would a same object, a gemstone for instance, under an early morning Bangkok sun, look slightly different then it would from under an Arizonian afternoon sky? To a certain extend, yes. Some types of gemstones will demonstrate greater color change then others, and more often then not, these differences will affect the price of a stone. Usually gem dealers would inspect gemstones in bright (but not direct) daylight. It is however good practice to avoid buying stones under cloudy sky. A set of reference stones with full color range can be an essential tool to be used under any light. A trained eye can distinguish small variants when comparing a new stone to a reference piece. The most important thing is to be aware of the variable nature of light and the magical way it colors our world.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

S Leone diamond exports sparkle

Freetown - Sierra Leone exported 603 623 carats of diamonds in 2007, in line with the previous year, but the value of sales rose to $142m as quality improved, a government official said on Friday.

Director of Mineral Resources Alimamy Wurie said the value of exports had increased from $127m in 2006, when 603 868 carats were exported.

"The 2007 total carats figure is less than 2006, but this year the carats were worth more," Wurie told Reuters.

The value of Sierra Leone's official diamond exports slumped to around $1m a year in the wake of a 1991-2002 civil war.

The West African country has since joined the Kimberley registration process and made strides in curbing smuggling, in collaboration with neighbouring Liberia and Guinea.

The arrival of diamond companies like Koidu Holdings, which operates the country's largest Kimberlite mine, has allowed the government to earn royalties, which were not previously paid by artisanal miners.

Government figures showed that last year the country's largest exporter was Lebanese diamond dealer Hussein Makie, who shipped 269 499 carats valued at $55m, Wurie said.

Koidu Holdings was second with 147 376 carats valued $28m, he said.

Koidu, owned by Israeli diamond magnate Beny Steinmetz, saw its activities suspended by the government in mid-December after a riot at its site in eastern Sierra Leone.

The managing director of Koidu Holdings, Jan Jourbert, said the company was still waiting for a government enquiry to begin.

"With the suspension of our Kimberlite operation by the government over two weeks now the company has been losing millions of dollars, and so has the government," he said.

TransFair to study fair trade diamonds

OAKLAND, Calif.—Fair trade certifier TransFair USA said Thursday jeweler Tiffany & Co. awarded it a $100,000 grant to asses the feasibility of fair trade certification for diamonds.

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TransFair said it will conduct the study early this year.

Fair trade products are certified as meeting practices that do not exploit laborers. The diamond trade has been under fire for years since some diamonds, called "conflict diamonds" are sold to fund the operations of rebel, military and terrorist groups.

TransFair USA certifies coffee, tea, herbs, vanilla, cocoa, chocolate, rice, sugar, bananas and flowers.

Cursed diamond 'fingerprinted'

The blood-red glow of the supposedly cursed diamond owned by Marie Antoinette will at last yield the gem's secret, scientists will announce today.

The famed Hope Diamond is a 45.52-carat deep blue, cut from the French Blue Diamond, part of the French crown jewels worn by Louis XIV.

It is rumoured that the original was stolen from an idol of the Hindu goddess Sita, the supposed source of a curse that is said to have afflicted those who possessed the gem, including Louis and his wife Marie Antoinette, who came to a sticky end on the guillotine, and the ill-fated Hope family, who gave their name to the gem cut from the French Blue.

The coal-sized diamond is now part of the Smithsonian Institution's United States Gem Collection in Washington. It has intrigued scientists because it gives off a red glow after it is bathed in ultraviolet light.

Today, the journal Geology reports that researchers from the Smithsonian, the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory and Penn State University believe the eerie glow can help them to "fingerprint" blue diamonds. The tests could help to identify other stones from the same source to shed light on the Hindu idol in the curse.